Fashion
Scandal-hit Balenciaga was once loved by UK royals…before selling £1.5k bin bags & backlash over ‘disgusting’ photoshoot
COCO Chanel once said: “Cristobal Balenciaga is the last true dressmaker. The rest of us are just designers.”
In a new Disney+ drama about his life, the mysterious fashion designer – who was so private many believed he didn’t exist – makes it clear he thought he was the only person who could have run Balenciaga successfully.
GettyKim Kardashian and Kanye West were often in the front row of Balenciaga catwalk shows[/caption]
Jam Press/BalenciagaThe ‘bondage bear’ pictures caused a backlash from A-list celebs[/caption]
After Yves Saint Laurent took over Christian Dior, when the latter died in 1957, Cristobal said: “I’ve always found that disgusting. How could others sign with my name?
“I’m sure Balenciaga can’t go on without me.” And he may have been right.
The name Balenciaga has now become more synonymous with tacky, tasteless designs Cristobal – who wanted “sophisticated simplicity” – would’ve been ashamed of.
Since 2012, Balenciaga has seen a £6million court battle between its parent company, Kering and former creative director Nicolas Ghesquiere, and matters have gone from bad to worse since the “morally questionable” Demna became creative director in 2015.
The brand has also never fully recovered from being hit with controversy, in 2022, when it used children and teddy bears in harnesses with an excerpt of a document about child pornography to promote the brand – with even former brand ambassador Kim Kardashian distancing herself.
So where did it all go wrong?
Duchess’s designer
Cristobal, who was born in San Sebastian, Spain, began making clothes when he was a child but it was when he arrived in Paris in 1937, following the Spanish Civil War, that his career took off.
Along with his millionaire partner Władzio Jaworowski d’Attainville, he opened up the haute couture house and his success was almost immediate.
Getty – ContributorCristobal wanted the name to die with him[/caption]
GettyCardi B walks the runaway in Balenciaga in 2023[/caption]
Despite the fact he refused to publicise his brand or do interviews with the press – only doing one in his entire life – within two years Coco Chanel and Harper’s Bazaar editor Carmel Snow were publicly lauding Cristobal with praise.
And his designs were extremely sought after, with the likes of Grace Kelly, Marlene Dietrich and the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson, wearing Balenciaga.
“Those women were crucial in designing my own style,” Cristobal once said.
Having been one of only 60 businesses allowed to operate in Paris throughout the Second World War – but with many restrictions – Cristobal began to change fashion as it was known in the post-war years.
Disney+Alberto San Juan plays the designer in the drama[/caption]
GettyQueen Fabiola of Spain got married in a Balenciaga creation[/caption]
GettyWallace Simpson, centre, was an early fan[/caption]
Diverging from the popular hourglass shape, he became responsible for many of the iconic shapes we see in clothing today.
Cristobal designed the tunic dress, which later developed into the chemise dress, as well as the spherical balloon jacket, the high-waisted baby doll dress, the cocoon coat, the balloon skirt, the sack dress – and lastly, in 1959, the Empire dress.
In 1960, Cristobal designed the wedding dress for Queen Fabiola of Belgium, which was made of ivory duchess satin trimmed with white mink at the collar and the hips.
With sales slumping due to the rise of ready-to-wear clothes, Cristobal eventually closed his fashion house, and retired in 1968, refusing to move with the times.
Adamant no one would take over from him as designer, he let all his staff go with three months’ notice – some of whom had worked for him their entire lives.
“Balenciaga makes no sense without me. I couldn’t live like that,” he said. “It wasn’t just a company. It was a part of me, like an extension of my body.
“How can a body survive without a brain? Can you imagine people making Picassos without Picasso?”
SplashKim Kardashian showcases one of the wackier styles[/caption]
Instagram/kimkardashianAs brand ambassador she showcased their bodysuits[/caption]
Brand reborn
Cristobal died four years later – and the house of Balenciaga lay dormant until 1997, when his heirs sold the company to Kering and made Nicolas Ghesquiere creative director.
Ghesquiere, who’s now the creative director of Louis Vuitton, brought the brand back to life, attracting a number of celeb customers, including former Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour and actress Jennifer Connelly.
In 2006, he designed Nicole Kidman’s dress for her wedding to Keith Urban, as well as many of the stunning, glitzy outfits Kylie Minogue wore in her Showgirl tour.
But, in 2012, Balenciaga announced it would be parting ways with Ghesquiere after 15 years, announcing Alexander Wang would be taking over.
Kering then sued Ghesquiere for breach of contract, seeking damages of €7 million (£6m), after he accused Balenciaga of “lacking in direction” in an interview with System.
He also described how he was “sucked dry, like they wanted to steal my identity while trying to homogenise things”.
The lawsuit was eventually settled out of court and, by 2015, Wang had been switched out for Demna.
Over the first few years, he managed to make Balenciaga cool, thanks to his unique take on streetwear, as well as Justin Bieber, Kanye West and Kim Kardashian becoming ambassadors for the brand.
It was Demna who designed Kim’s iconic 2021 Met Gala look, which saw her dressed head-to-toe, completely masked, in black.
GettyKim Kardsashian wore a mask over her face at the 2021 ball[/caption]
BackGridShe also covered herself in the brand’s sticky tape in 2021[/caption]
Trash trends and ‘child exploitation’
However, in September 2021, Balenciaga faced backlash when it released tracksuit bottoms that had been designed to give the illusion plaid boxers were sticking out the top of them – for a hefty price tag of $1,190 (£940).
Further ridicule was heaped on the brand when they released their ‘trash bag’ – a hand bag that resembled a black bin liner – at the eye-watering price tag of $1,790 (£1,500).
Ambassador Kim Kardashian showed off the bag online and fans reacted by mocking her, with one commenting: “This isn’t fashion it’s a joke.”
It came five years after they released a $2,145 (£1,700) tote bag that was a deadringer for the Ikea bag for life – which cost 40p.
It’s a far cry from the elegant gowns Cristobal was famous for.
BalenciagaThe ‘trash bag’ came in at £1,500[/caption]
The Ikea bag lookalike cost 4,200 times the original
BalenciagaThe trackies with the plaid pants were ridiculed[/caption]
But it was November 2022 when things got really bad for Balenciaga, as it released two extremely controversial advertising campaigns within days of each other.
The first ad saw children holding teddy bears dressed in bondage and BDSM gear, leading to heavy criticism on social media over the sexualisation of children.
Meanwhile, a separate advert campaign saw a £2,400 Balenciaga handbag among papers, which included an extract from a child pornography court case.
In another picture a model sat at a desk next to a book by the Belgian artist Michaël Borremans, whose work sparked controversy with images of castrated toddlers playing violent and sinister games and a further image a fake framed college certificate included the name of a convicted child abuse was seen on the wall.
Jam Press/BalenciagaThe photos were slammed as ‘disgusting’[/caption]
Jam Press/BalenciagaThe campaign sparked a court case[/caption]
As #cancelBalenciaga quickly began to trend across Twitter and TikTok, with many accusing the brand and Demna of condoning paedophilia and child exploitation and one critic blasting him as “morally questionable”.
Balenciaga immediately removed both advertising campaigns.
The Business of Fashion then rescinded its 2022 Global Voices Award offer to Demna, noting that it holds “the safety of children in the highest regard,” and a street artist defaced the storefront of Balenciaga’s flagship store in London, branding the word “paedophilia” on one of the windows.
The photographer, Gabriele Galimberti, was the first to quickly distance himself from any responsibility, claiming that both the children and the objects which appeared in the photos were all selected by Balenciaga.
Balenciaga later apologised for what it called “a series of grievous errors for which Balenciaga takes responsibility”.
Demna added: “I want to personally apologise for the wrong artistic choice of concept for the gifting campaign with the kids and I take my responsibility.
“It was inappropriate to have kids promote objects that had nothing to do with them. As much as I would sometimes like to provoke a thought through my work, I would NEVER have an intention to do that with such an awful subject as child abuse that I condemn.”
Balenciaga then announced that it was taking legal action in pursuit of $25million (£20m), against the production company North Six Inc. and set designer, Nicholas Des Jardins, claiming they were the ones responsible for the advert with the child pornography court document and had included them “without Balenciaga’s knowledge or authorisation”.
In response, the set designer’s attorney said that Balenciaga representatives were present at the shoot and handled the papers and props used.
Many criticised the lawsuit as an attempt by Balenciaga to absolve itself of culpability. The lawsuit has since been dropped.
But the damage was done, and even Kim Kardashian, who’d been one of the brand’s biggest supporters, condemned the adverts.
GettyDemna apologised over the controversy[/caption]
The reality star cut ties after the rowTwitter
After a few days of radio silence, she said: “I have been quiet for the past few days, not because I haven’t been disgusted and outraged by the recent Balenciaga campaigns.”
Her statement went on to say she is currently reevaluating her future relationship with the brand, “basing it off their willingness to accept accountability for something that should have never happened to begin with.”
By January 2023, she was selling her old Balenciaga clothes and accessories on the famous family’s online retail site, Kardashian Kloset.
Kim listed more than 30 Balenciaga items, many of which were unworn, with the tags still attached, including a pair of black Balenciaga trainers which had been marked down from $850 (£670) to $680 (£536).
In March 2023, Balenciaga showcased its first collection since the controversy – and it seemed Demna was taking things back to basics.
Before the show, underneath the Louvre in Paris, he said: “There will be nothing to see but clothes. I need to be the radical antidote – to not be in that conversation at all.
“That’s what Cristóbal Balenciaga would do.”
True to his word, there were no Kardashians or Hadids on the front row or the catwalk and no Balenciaga plastered on any of the clothes.
There were also no supermodels traipsing through mud, water and snow, like there had been in previous runways.
It was just tailored suits, with the jackets made from trousers, and a trench coat made from chinos, with Demna saying he’ll no longer produce the sort of clothes and accessories that “press buttons”.
The brand looks like it’s on the up again, with Michelle Yeoh and Nicole Kidman appointed as brand ambassadors at the end of last year.
GettyA model shows off the new designs in March 2023[/caption]
BackGridMichelle Yeoh, pictured at Balenciaga dinner in Paris Fashion, in July 2023[/caption]
And Denma seemingly adopting Cristobal’s way of thinking.
“You ask me how the business survives without the buzz?” he said. “I think that’s through the product.
“I never really wanted to be seen as a provocateur. I’m an introvert who has trouble socialising.
“These clothes are about making people want to wear them.”
Cristobal Balenciaga is now streaming on Disney+
COCO Chanel once said: “Cristobal Balenciaga is the last true dressmaker. The rest of us are just designers.”
In a new Disney+ drama about his life, the mysterious fashion designer – who was so private many believed he didn’t exist – makes it clear he thought he was the only person who could have run Balenciaga successfully.
GettyKim Kardashian and Kanye West were often in the front row of Balenciaga catwalk shows[/caption]
Jam Press/BalenciagaThe ‘bondage bear’ pictures caused a backlash from A-list celebs[/caption]
After Yves Saint Laurent took over Christian Dior, when the latter died in 1957, Cristobal said: “I’ve always found that disgusting. How could others sign with my name?
“I’m sure Balenciaga can’t go on without me.” And he may have been right.
The name Balenciaga has now become more synonymous with tacky, tasteless designs Cristobal – who wanted “sophisticated simplicity” – would’ve been ashamed of.
Since 2012, Balenciaga has seen a £6million court battle between its parent company, Kering and former creative director Nicolas Ghesquiere, and matters have gone from bad to worse since the “morally questionable” Demna became creative director in 2015.
The brand has also never fully recovered from being hit with controversy, in 2022, when it used children and teddy bears in harnesses with an excerpt of a document about child pornography to promote the brand – with even former brand ambassador Kim Kardashian distancing herself.
So where did it all go wrong?
Duchess’s designer
Cristobal, who was born in San Sebastian, Spain, began making clothes when he was a child but it was when he arrived in Paris in 1937, following the Spanish Civil War, that his career took off.
Along with his millionaire partner Władzio Jaworowski d’Attainville, he opened up the haute couture house and his success was almost immediate.
Getty – ContributorCristobal wanted the name to die with him[/caption]
GettyCardi B walks the runaway in Balenciaga in 2023[/caption]
Despite the fact he refused to publicise his brand or do interviews with the press – only doing one in his entire life – within two years Coco Chanel and Harper’s Bazaar editor Carmel Snow were publicly lauding Cristobal with praise.
And his designs were extremely sought after, with the likes of Grace Kelly, Marlene Dietrich and the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson, wearing Balenciaga.
“Those women were crucial in designing my own style,” Cristobal once said.
Having been one of only 60 businesses allowed to operate in Paris throughout the Second World War – but with many restrictions – Cristobal began to change fashion as it was known in the post-war years.
Disney+Alberto San Juan plays the designer in the drama[/caption]
GettyQueen Fabiola of Spain got married in a Balenciaga creation[/caption]
GettyWallace Simpson, centre, was an early fan[/caption]
Diverging from the popular hourglass shape, he became responsible for many of the iconic shapes we see in clothing today.
Cristobal designed the tunic dress, which later developed into the chemise dress, as well as the spherical balloon jacket, the high-waisted baby doll dress, the cocoon coat, the balloon skirt, the sack dress – and lastly, in 1959, the Empire dress.
In 1960, Cristobal designed the wedding dress for Queen Fabiola of Belgium, which was made of ivory duchess satin trimmed with white mink at the collar and the hips.
With sales slumping due to the rise of ready-to-wear clothes, Cristobal eventually closed his fashion house, and retired in 1968, refusing to move with the times.
Adamant no one would take over from him as designer, he let all his staff go with three months’ notice – some of whom had worked for him their entire lives.
“Balenciaga makes no sense without me. I couldn’t live like that,” he said. “It wasn’t just a company. It was a part of me, like an extension of my body.
“How can a body survive without a brain? Can you imagine people making Picassos without Picasso?”
SplashKim Kardashian showcases one of the wackier styles[/caption]
Instagram/kimkardashianAs brand ambassador she showcased their bodysuits[/caption]
Brand reborn
Cristobal died four years later – and the house of Balenciaga lay dormant until 1997, when his heirs sold the company to Kering and made Nicolas Ghesquiere creative director.
Ghesquiere, who’s now the creative director of Louis Vuitton, brought the brand back to life, attracting a number of celeb customers, including former Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour and actress Jennifer Connelly.
In 2006, he designed Nicole Kidman’s dress for her wedding to Keith Urban, as well as many of the stunning, glitzy outfits Kylie Minogue wore in her Showgirl tour.
But, in 2012, Balenciaga announced it would be parting ways with Ghesquiere after 15 years, announcing Alexander Wang would be taking over.
Kering then sued Ghesquiere for breach of contract, seeking damages of €7 million (£6m), after he accused Balenciaga of “lacking in direction” in an interview with System.
He also described how he was “sucked dry, like they wanted to steal my identity while trying to homogenise things”.
The lawsuit was eventually settled out of court and, by 2015, Wang had been switched out for Demna.
Over the first few years, he managed to make Balenciaga cool, thanks to his unique take on streetwear, as well as Justin Bieber, Kanye West and Kim Kardashian becoming ambassadors for the brand.
It was Demna who designed Kim’s iconic 2021 Met Gala look, which saw her dressed head-to-toe, completely masked, in black.
GettyKim Kardsashian wore a mask over her face at the 2021 ball[/caption]
BackGridShe also covered herself in the brand’s sticky tape in 2021[/caption]
Trash trends and ‘child exploitation’
However, in September 2021, Balenciaga faced backlash when it released tracksuit bottoms that had been designed to give the illusion plaid boxers were sticking out the top of them – for a hefty price tag of $1,190 (£940).
Further ridicule was heaped on the brand when they released their ‘trash bag’ – a hand bag that resembled a black bin liner – at the eye-watering price tag of $1,790 (£1,500).
Ambassador Kim Kardashian showed off the bag online and fans reacted by mocking her, with one commenting: “This isn’t fashion it’s a joke.”
It came five years after they released a $2,145 (£1,700) tote bag that was a deadringer for the Ikea bag for life – which cost 40p.
It’s a far cry from the elegant gowns Cristobal was famous for.
BalenciagaThe ‘trash bag’ came in at £1,500[/caption]
The Ikea bag lookalike cost 4,200 times the original
BalenciagaThe trackies with the plaid pants were ridiculed[/caption]
But it was November 2022 when things got really bad for Balenciaga, as it released two extremely controversial advertising campaigns within days of each other.
The first ad saw children holding teddy bears dressed in bondage and BDSM gear, leading to heavy criticism on social media over the sexualisation of children.
Meanwhile, a separate advert campaign saw a £2,400 Balenciaga handbag among papers, which included an extract from a child pornography court case.
In another picture a model sat at a desk next to a book by the Belgian artist Michaël Borremans, whose work sparked controversy with images of castrated toddlers playing violent and sinister games and a further image a fake framed college certificate included the name of a convicted child abuse was seen on the wall.
Jam Press/BalenciagaThe photos were slammed as ‘disgusting’[/caption]
Jam Press/BalenciagaThe campaign sparked a court case[/caption]
As #cancelBalenciaga quickly began to trend across Twitter and TikTok, with many accusing the brand and Demna of condoning paedophilia and child exploitation and one critic blasting him as “morally questionable”.
Balenciaga immediately removed both advertising campaigns.
The Business of Fashion then rescinded its 2022 Global Voices Award offer to Demna, noting that it holds “the safety of children in the highest regard,” and a street artist defaced the storefront of Balenciaga’s flagship store in London, branding the word “paedophilia” on one of the windows.
The photographer, Gabriele Galimberti, was the first to quickly distance himself from any responsibility, claiming that both the children and the objects which appeared in the photos were all selected by Balenciaga.
Balenciaga later apologised for what it called “a series of grievous errors for which Balenciaga takes responsibility”.
Demna added: “I want to personally apologise for the wrong artistic choice of concept for the gifting campaign with the kids and I take my responsibility.
“It was inappropriate to have kids promote objects that had nothing to do with them. As much as I would sometimes like to provoke a thought through my work, I would NEVER have an intention to do that with such an awful subject as child abuse that I condemn.”
Balenciaga then announced that it was taking legal action in pursuit of $25million (£20m), against the production company North Six Inc. and set designer, Nicholas Des Jardins, claiming they were the ones responsible for the advert with the child pornography court document and had included them “without Balenciaga’s knowledge or authorisation”.
In response, the set designer’s attorney said that Balenciaga representatives were present at the shoot and handled the papers and props used.
Many criticised the lawsuit as an attempt by Balenciaga to absolve itself of culpability. The lawsuit has since been dropped.
But the damage was done, and even Kim Kardashian, who’d been one of the brand’s biggest supporters, condemned the adverts.
GettyDemna apologised over the controversy[/caption]
The reality star cut ties after the rowTwitter
After a few days of radio silence, she said: “I have been quiet for the past few days, not because I haven’t been disgusted and outraged by the recent Balenciaga campaigns.”
Her statement went on to say she is currently reevaluating her future relationship with the brand, “basing it off their willingness to accept accountability for something that should have never happened to begin with.”
By January 2023, she was selling her old Balenciaga clothes and accessories on the famous family’s online retail site, Kardashian Kloset.
Kim listed more than 30 Balenciaga items, many of which were unworn, with the tags still attached, including a pair of black Balenciaga trainers which had been marked down from $850 (£670) to $680 (£536).
In March 2023, Balenciaga showcased its first collection since the controversy – and it seemed Demna was taking things back to basics.
Before the show, underneath the Louvre in Paris, he said: “There will be nothing to see but clothes. I need to be the radical antidote – to not be in that conversation at all.
“That’s what Cristóbal Balenciaga would do.”
True to his word, there were no Kardashians or Hadids on the front row or the catwalk and no Balenciaga plastered on any of the clothes.
There were also no supermodels traipsing through mud, water and snow, like there had been in previous runways.
It was just tailored suits, with the jackets made from trousers, and a trench coat made from chinos, with Demna saying he’ll no longer produce the sort of clothes and accessories that “press buttons”.
The brand looks like it’s on the up again, with Michelle Yeoh and Nicole Kidman appointed as brand ambassadors at the end of last year.
GettyA model shows off the new designs in March 2023[/caption]
BackGridMichelle Yeoh, pictured at Balenciaga dinner in Paris Fashion, in July 2023[/caption]
And Denma seemingly adopting Cristobal’s way of thinking.
“You ask me how the business survives without the buzz?” he said. “I think that’s through the product.
“I never really wanted to be seen as a provocateur. I’m an introvert who has trouble socialising.
“These clothes are about making people want to wear them.”
Cristobal Balenciaga is now streaming on Disney+
Fashion – Latest Style News And Fabulous Trends | The Sun
